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Frequently asked questions

Get fast answers to your Washer questions here!

WASHERS

If your washer is not performing properly or producing the cleaning results you want, there are things to check before you call for service.

Often manufacturers' websites will offer suggestions. GE Appliances and Frigidaire have extremely comprehensive Frequently Asked Questions information on their websites. Here is information from those two sites.

From Frigidaire website:

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS - FRIGIDAIRE

Click on one of the questions below to get answers.

Where can I find my washer's model and serial number?
How does a front load washer differ from a standard top load washer?
How can I tell if my appliance is ENERGY STAR® qualified?
What should I do if my washer does not start?
How can I increase the flow of water to the washer?
If water is entering my washer but it's not filling up, what should I do?
If water is leaking from my washer, what should I do?
The wash and rinse temperatures aren't what I selected. How can I adjust that?
To increase the water temperature for your washer, look into the following:
The washer's water level does not cover my laundry load. Can I adjust that?
What should I do if my washer is not spinning?
My washer produces a lot of suds. How can I reduce or remove them?
Is it normal for my washer to make thumping, rattling, or clanking sounds?
What might cause my washer to vibrate?
The lid or door of my washer won't open. How do I open it?
If my clothes are too wet after the spin cycle, what can I do?
Is it normal for water to collect in the bleach or fabric softener compartments?
What's the best way to clean and care for my washer?
What water temperature should I select when washing a load of laundry?
Can I do anything to help decrease wrinkles in permanent press items?
Can I do anything to reduce the amount of lint?
Is it possible to reduce the amount of pilling on garments?
What causes detergent residue on fabric?
What is the best way to preserve fabric color when washing?

GE Appliances

From GE Appliances website:

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS - GE APPLIANCES

Click on one of the statements below to get answers.

My washer does not spin.
My washer is leaking water on the floor.
The water is not draining out of my washer.
My washer is noisy.
I have a strange odor inside my washer.
I am getting oil on my clothes/floor.
My washer is walking/vibrating.
How do I remove the agitator?
Where is the model and serial number located on my washer?

ANSWERS

Where can I find my washer's model and serial number?

Your washer's model and serial number can be found on the serial plate located on the underside of the lid of most top load washers. They are located on the inside of the door of the Front Load washer. The Top Load washer has the serial plate on the underside of the lid. The front load washer has the serial plate located either on the inner door or the door well depending on the product. It's always a good idea to record these numbers and the date of purchase, as well as to save your receipt.

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How does a front load washer differ from a standard top load washer?

Front load washers offer several benefits, including:
  • Front load washers have no center agitator, but instead rely on tumble action to wash gently and rinse completely, helping your clothes last longer and feel fresher.
  • The exact amount of water required is automatically sensed by the washer, so you only use the amount of water you need.
  • The washer's dispenser that mixes detergent, softener, and bleach safely away from your clothes.
  • Added capacity and efficiency produce savings of up to 82% in energy and water consumption-or up to $180 and 10,000 gallons of water a year.
  • Installation options are more flexible than standard top load units, to better suit your space and needs.

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How can I tell if my appliance is ENERGY STAR® qualified?

Front load washers offer several benefits, including:
  • Need the right paragraph here
  • The exact amount of water required is automatically sensed by the washer, so you only use the amount of water you need.
  • The washer's dispenser that mixes detergent, softener, and bleach safely away from your clothes.
  • Added capacity and efficiency produce savings of up to 82% in energy and water consumption-or up to $180 and 10,000 gallons of water a year.
  • Installation options are more flexible than standard top load units, to better suit your space and needs.

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What should I do if my washer does not start?

If your washer does not start, it might be due to one of the following reasons:
  • The wash cycle is in a pause stage. This is normal-a pause occurs between the wash and spin cycles, with a longer pause occurring during the soak cycle. Normal pauses also occur as part of the reverse tumbling action of a Front Load washer.
  • The cycle selector knob is not quite the start position. To ensure it's correctly positioned, turn the knob or dial slightly past your desired start position, then pull it out to start the washer.
  • The power cord may not be plugged in, or the connection may be loose. Check to be sure the plug fits tightly into the wall outlet. Note: Do not use an extension cord. Depending on the quality of the extension cord and the length, the power actually getting to the washer may be greatly reduced and will not allow the washer to perform properly.
  • The door or lid of the washer is open. For your safety, the door or lid of your washer must be completely closed for the washer to fill, tumble or agitate, and spin.
  • A fuse is blown in your home, or a circuit breaker tripped. If this is the case, reset the circuit breaker or replace the fuse (but do not increase the fuse capacity). If you have an overloaded circuit, contact a qualified electrician to correct it.
  • The motor is overheated. Your washer's motor will stop if it becomes overheated, then automatically restart after a cool-down period of up to 30 minutes (if the timer has not been manually turned off). If problem continues, contact us for service.
  • A power outage has occurred. In this case, you might want to call your local electric company.

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How can I increase the flow of water to the washer?

If water is flowing into your washer slowly or isn't flowing in at all, you might find a solution by checking the following:
  • Hot and cold water faucets. Be sure that your water supply faucets are completely open.
  • Water fill hoses. Check your water hoses to see if they might be kinked. If so, simply straighten the hoses.
  • Water pressure.. Your washer needs sufficient water pressure to fill. You might want to avoid running too much water elsewhere in your home while the washer is filling.
  • Water supply. Turn on another faucet in your home to check the water supply in your area. You may need to wait until your water supply and pressure increase before running your washer.
  • The washer door or lid. Make sure the lid or door of your Front Load washer is completely latched. For your safety, the door must be fully closed for the washer to operate.
  • The dispenser drawer. Check to see that the dispenser drawer on your Front Load washer is completely closed.
  • The filter on the water valve. If the filter screens on your water valve are clogged, turn off your water faucets and remove the hoses from the water valve connections. Clean the filter screens, then reconnect the hoses and turn on the water. Check for any leaks at the connections and tighten if necessary.

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If water is entering my washer but it's not filling up, what should I do?

If water is flowing into your washer, but the tub or drum does not fill, it might be due to one of the following reasons:
  • The drain standpipe length. To prevent siphoning off of the incoming water, the standpipe can't be too short-it must be at least 33 inches high for a top load washer or 24 inches high for a Front Load washer. For more information, please refer to the installation instructions that came with your washer.
  • The drain hose fit. To prevent siphoning off of the incoming water, the standpipe can't be too short-it must be at least 33 inches high for a top load washer or 24 inches high for a Front Load washer. For more information, please refer to the installation instructions that came with your washer.
  • The drain hose pushed too far down the standpipe.. The drain hose should be securely inserted into the standpipe, but not so far in that it reaches the trap area of the standpipe plumbing.

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If water is leaking from my washer, what should I do?

If water is leaking out of your washer, check the following:
  • Is the drain clogged? If you have a clogged drain, it will need to be cleaned-contact a local plumber if necessary.
  • Is the drain hose restricted, or out of the standpipe? If the drain hose is out of the standpipe, you'll need to secure it. You can do this by bending the end to form a hook, placing the hooked end into the standpipe, and tying the hose to the standpipe or a faucet with a cable tie (one was supplied with the washer), strong filament tape, or duct tape.
  • Is the fill hose connection loose at the faucet or washer?. Check and tighten the hose connections. If they're loose, you might need to install or replace rubber sealing washers.
  • Are you using a high-sudsing detergent, or is your water supply soft?. Using a high-sudsing detergent, or using too much detergent in soft water, can cause suds to overflow the washer. This may seem like a leak if the suds flow or drip onto the floor. Use a low-sudsing detergent, and reduce the amount of detergent you use if your water is soft.

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The wash and rinse temperatures aren't what I selected. How can I adjust that?

If the temperature for your wash and rinse cycles is not what you selected, check the temperature control knob. If it's between settings, turn it until the indicator clicks into position for your desired water temperature.

You can also check to see if your hot water and cold water hoses are reversed. Run water from each faucet to check if the hoses are connected to the right supply faucets. The hot water hose should be connected to the hot faucet and to the water valve connection marked H on the washer. The other hose should be connected to the cold faucet and the water valve connection marked C on the washer.

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To increase the water temperature for your washer, look into the following:

  • Water heater setting. Your water heater may be set too low. Measure the hot water temperature at the washer or a nearby faucet with a thermometer. It should reach at least 120°F. If it doesn't, adjust your water heater.
  • Hot water usage elswhere in the home. Your hot water heater may not be able to supply enough hot water for simultaneous, multiple uses. Based on the capacity of your water heater, you may need to avoid using hot water elsewhere before or during the use of your washer.
  • Distance between your water heater and washer.. It's possible that water may cool as it moves through the pipes from your water heater to the washer. Try opening the hot water faucet at a nearby sink to drain cool water from the pipes before starting the washer.
  • ENERGY STAR® appliances. Energy-saving washers have controls that supply cooler warm water as a means to save energy and money. These water temperatures may seem cooler than what you were used to in older, high-energy use machines; however, the washer is performing properly

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The washer's water level does not cover my laundry load. Can I adjust that?

For a top load washer, you can increase the water level by turning the Water Level/Load Size control to RESET and then selecting a higher level or load size.

A Front Load washer will automatically determine the proper water level for each load-you don't have to do anything. Because of the water efficiency of this type of washer, its water level will never be above the bottom of the door.

Tip: If you prefer cold water washing, it's recommended that you occasionally run a hot or warm water wash, because repeated use of cold water and liquid detergents may produce an odor in the washer over time.

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What should I do if my washer is not spinning?

If your washer isn't spinning, check to be sure the lid or door is securely closed. For your safety, the washer will not spin if the door or lid is open.

On a Front Load washer, you can also check to see whether the dispenser drawer is open-it should be completely closed.

Finally, if your load is out of balance, this might also prevent the washer from spinning. Rearrange it to allow for proper spinning, possibly adding one or two similar items to help balance a small load.

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My washer produces a lot of suds. How can I reduce or remove them?

A number of things can increase the amount of suds produced when you wash a load of laundry, including:

  • Soft water. You need less detergent when the water supply is naturally soft, or chemically or mechanically softened.
  • Detergent type. Your detergent should be compatible with your washer type. High efficiency (HE) detergents are recommended for Front Load Washers, and are formulated to reduce suds and ensure proper cleaning.
  • Pretreated items. Because pretreatment products remain on items that go in the wash, they can add to the suds normally produced by your detergent. When using these products, simply use less than the recommended amount of detergent.
  • Other laundry products. Products such as oxygen bleach can produce extra suds. Simply reduce the amount of detergent you use when you're also using products such as an oxygen bleach.
  • Detergent amount. For optimum results, follow directions for the recommended amount of detergent, with adjustments for type and amount of soil, load size, and water hardness and temperature.

You can remove excess suds by stopping the washer and advancing the cycle selector to Final Spin. Rewash the load in cold water without detergent and repeat, if necessary, until the final rinse water is clear.

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Is it normal for my washer to make thumping, rattling, or clanking sounds?

It's normal for a heavy wash load to sometimes produce a thumping sound at the beginning of the spin cycle. If the sound does not stop, the load is likely out of balance. Simply stop the washer and rearrange the items.

Rattling or clanking sounds can be caused by belt buckles or other metal fasteners in the load. You can fasten these items and turn garments inside out to reduce the sound. Rattling or clanking might also be caused by foreign objects (such as coins or safety pins) in the tub or drum. Stop the washer and check for objects in the tub or drum. If none are present and the sound continues, an object may be in the pump and you should call for authorized service.

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What might cause my washer to vibrate?

If your washer is vibrating, it might be due to one of the reasons below:

  • The load is off balance. Shut off the washer, wait for the safety lock to release, and redistribute the clothes evenly in the washer. If the load remains out of balance, simply add 1 or 2 similar items and restart the washer.
  • The washer needs to be resting firmly on the floor. The washer must be level (both front to back and side to side), with each washer leg sitting solidly on the floor. A top load washer laundry center has self-leveling rear legs, which you can adjust by tipping the washer forward so that the back is about an inch off the floor, and then setting it back down. For Front Load Washers, remove the front access panel, loosen the lock nuts, turn legs in or out slightly until the washer sets solidly on the floor, then tighten the lock nuts. For maximum stability, leveling legs should not extend more than 1/2 inch below the washer bottom.
  • The washer needs to be on a sturdy floor. Be sure the washer is installed on a hard floor-not a carpeted one. Install the washer on a section of 3/4 inch plywood that has been secured to the floor joists with lag screws.
  • Shipping materials are still in the washer. For a top load washer, remove the shipping bolt located at the bottom center of the washer and refer to the installation instructions that came with your washer. For a Front Load washer, remove the 3 shipping bolts, 3 yellow spacers, and 3 metal "P" clamps from the back of the washer. Make sure the foam shipping block has been removed from the bottom of the washer. On some models, you'll also need to remove the access panel from the front of the unit, then remove the 2 yellow shipping braces and Styrofoam shipping block and replace the access panel.

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The lid or door of my washer won't open. How do I open it?

For your safety, the lid of a top load washer cannot be opened during the spin cycle. To open it, simply stop the washer and wait 1 to 3 minutes for the safety lock to open.

On a front load washer, the door will be locked during the entire wash cycle. Before tumbling starts, you can stop the washer and then wait for the water to drain off the window before opening the door. To open the door during the spin cycle, stop the washer and wait 1 to 3 minutes for the lock to release-do not force the door open.

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If my clothes are too wet after the spin cycle, what can I do?

Clothes might seem too wet because they were rinsed in cold water. While a cold-water rinse saves energy and reduces wrinkling, it tends to leave clothes feeling wetter.

If your clothes seem wetter than they should be after the spin cycle, check the following:

  • The drain hose should be straight and unclogged.
  • The load might be off balance-rearrange it to allow for proper spinning.
  • The load might be too small. If so, add a few similar items.
  • The load might be too big. A load of dry clothes in a top load washer should not be higher than the top row of holes in the tub; the drum of a Front Load washer should not be tightly packed (the door should close easily).
  • Select a cycle with a faster spin speed (if your washer has this feature).
  • It's possible that your pump may be clogged. If so, you will need to call your authorized service provider.

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Is it normal for water to collect in the bleach or fabric softener compartments?

Yes, it is normal for a small amount of water to remain in the dispenser drawer of a Front Load washer. If you like, you can simply remove the dispenser drawer and empty the water, but it isn't necessary.

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What's the best way to clean and care for my washer?

For optimal care of your washer, we recommend that you follow the below guidelines:

  • Promptly remove finished loads.
  • Clean the top and sides of the washer with a damp cloth or mild detergent and water. Be sure to avoid harsh, gritty, or abrasive cleansers.
  • Leave the lid, door, and dispenser drawer open when your washer is not in use.
  • To remove any odors, add 1 cup of chlorine bleach to the washer's empty tub. Run the regular cycle using hot wash water and cold rinse water.
  • Remove any interior stains with a nonabrasive household cleanser or diluted chlorine bleach (1/2 cup bleach to 1 quart water), then rinse well.
  • After using a Front Load washer, dry the edge of the door, the flexible gasket, and the door glass.
  • On a top load washer, clean the bleach and fabric softener dispensers following the instructions in your owner's guide.
  • Remove any detergent or fabric softener residue from the dispenser drawer and recess of the Front Load washer following the instructions in your owner's guide.
  • When washing heavily soiled items, shake or brush off excess dirt and sand before washing. If any remains in the tub or drum after washing, wipe it with a nonabrasive household cleanser, then rinse.
  • Turn water faucets off when not in use over a long period to prevent pressure build-up in the washer's hoses.
  • For storage of your washer in cold weather conditions (when freezing can occur), follow the instructions in your owner's guide.

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What water temperature should I select when washing a load of laundry?

When choosing your preferred water temperature, consider these basic points:

  • Hot water cleans most effectively, but shouldn't be used for all items.
  • Warm water can be used for most normally soiled loads.
  • Cold water is recommended for lightly soiled or brightly colored items.

To compensate for cooler wash water, it may be necessary to soak or prewash heavily soiled items, increase wash time, use a liquid detergent, or use additional laundry products to boost the detergent's cleaning power. For detergent to be activated, and for powdered detergent to dissolve, the wash water temperature must be at least 65 degrees F.

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Can I do anything to help decrease wrinkles in permanent press items?

For best results when washing permanent press items, follow these steps:

  • Use a warm-water wash to help relax wrinkles, and a cold-water rinse to reduce wrinkling during spin.
  • Remove items promptly when the cycle is complete.
  • Load the tub of a top load washer only as high as the top row of holes. In a Front Load washer, avoid packing items too tightly (the door should close easily).
  • Try selecting a cycle with a slower or shorter final spin.
  • Add liquid fabric softener to the final rinse water.

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Can I do anything to reduce the amount of lint?

Lint will occur naturally through abrasion, but you can reduce it by following these steps:

  • Use the recommended amount of detergent-it traps lint during the wash cycle and holds it in suspension until it is flushed out in the rinse cycle.
  • Be sure that your inlet and drain hoses are not kinked or clogged. (Adequate water pressure and proper draining help remove lint from the wash load.)
  • Sort lint-producing items from lint-attracting items.
  • Empty all pockets of paper and other objects.

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Is it possible to reduce the amount of pilling on garments?

Abrasion will cause pilling on synthetic fabrics and loosely woven or knitted items.

To minimize pilling:

  • Sort items made of synthetic fibers from those made of natural fibers, and wash them separately.
  • Turn garments inside out for washing.
  • Shorten the wash time.

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What causes detergent residue on fabric?

Detergent residue is a white substance that resembles lint and can leave streaks on garments. It can be caused by any of the below:

  • Powder detergent that does not dissolve.
  • Using too little detergent.
  • Incomplete rinsing caused by an overloaded tub or drum.
  • Misuse of liquid fabric softener.
  • Hard water.
  • Low water pressure.

To remove detergent residue, rewash the items in the hottest water safe for the fabrics, using the recommended amount of detergent.

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What is the best way to preserve fabric color when washing?

To avoid discoloration of fabrics, it helps to be aware of the following:

  • Undiluted liquid fabric softener can cause greasy stains. Rub any such stains with bar soap and then rewash the garment. Be sure to follow the instructions in your washer's owner's guide for using fabric softener.
  • Graying or yellowing of fabric may result from using an inadequate amount of detergent, wash water temperature that is too low, or wash time that is too short.
  • Sort loads according to soil level. Use the recommended amount of detergent and the hottest water safe for the fabric.
  • To whiten or brighten items, use chlorine or nonchlorine bleach (if safe for the fabric) or a water conditioner.
  • Yellow or brown rust stains can be caused by iron or manganese in your water supply or in your water pipes or water heater, as well as by metal fasteners on items in the load. Flush rusty water from pipes by running water into a nearby sink for a few minutes before starting the washer. Drain your water heater occasionally and consider installing an iron filter in the water supply. Remove wet loads from the washer at the end of the cycle. If you do see rust stains, remove them with a rust remover safe for fabrics-NOT with chlorine bleach, which will intensify rust stains.
  • Because some fabric dyes are unstable and bleed easily, sort items carefully and wash some items separately. Follow care instructions on the fabric label.
  • Be aware that color loss can be caused by ingredients found in common consumer products, such as chlorine bleach, acne medications, home permanent solutions, battery acid, household cleaners, antiperspirants, hair spray, beverages, shampoo, and toothpaste.
  • Dye transfer can occur when damp colored items come in contact with each other before or after washing. Sort items carefully and wash some separately. Remove a wet load from the washer at the end of the cycle and dry it immediately in the dryer, if possible.

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My washer does not spin

To minimize the possibility of electric shock, unplug this appliance from the power supply before attempting any maintenance or cleaning.

  • Wait for a few minutes. On 1995 and newer models, pauses of up to three minutes may occur between cycles as the timer advances in steps. For example, there may be a 3 minute delay at the end of agitation and prior to the washer pumping out the water. The pump-out process itself can then take an additional 3 minutes. After the pump out, the washer will begin to spin. Do not manually advance the timer if it's pausing after agitation, as you may miss the pump-out cycle.
  • Check your house fuses, circuit breakers, and the wall outlet. A loss of electrical power to the washer will cause a failure to spin. To check for power at the wall outlet, carefully plug a small table lamp or hair dryer into the wall outlet and turn it on. If it does not work, you may have blown a fuse, tripped a circuit breaker, or have a defective wall outlet.
  • Make sure washer lid is down. Some older washers will agitate with lid up, but none will spin with lid up.
    For 1994 and older models:

  • Advance timer slightly to make sure timer was not in a pause mode. The word "Spin" may not appear on the dial. Spin occurs in the area just before the "Off" position.
    For 1995 and newer models:

  • For models with rotary knob "Spin Speed" selector switch:
  • Check that the pointer of knob is not stuck between speed selections.
  • If machine pumps water out and you are positive that the motor is running, but tub is not spinning, then the problem is mechanical involving clutch/belt/transmission. Arrange service.

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My washer is leaking water on the floor

To minimize the possibility of electric shock, unplug this appliance from the power supply before attempting any maintenance or cleaning.

  • Is the lid up? If so, some water splattering around the lid area is normal.
  • If the lid is down, try to determine where water is coming from:
For 1994 and earlier models if water is showing up in the front left corner, water may be splashing down the overflow tube. (This pertains only to full size washers; there is no overflow tube on compact models.) This condition is caused by "oversudsing," especially if you have soft water. Using less detergent will help solve this condition. Test by running washer through cycle without soap. If it still leaks, arrange service.

Note: When "Tide Laundry Detergent With Bleach" is used in combination with Chlorine bleach, "oversudsing" (and in turn overflow) may occur. This is especially true if you have soft water.

  • Check to see if the washer is overloaded or out of balance. Be sure to sort not only by color and fabric but by weight, i.e. wash heavy items with similar heavy items.
  • Check fill hoses for loose connections. Black rubber washer inserts are included in the installation package. If these are not installed, there will be water leaking from the fill hoses at the faucet, or at the washer connection. If hose connections are "hand tight" and still leaking, the rubber washer may be missing or worn out.
  • Check house standpipe. Water may be backing up and spilling out of the standpipe as the washer is draining. The standpipe is the drain line where your washer drain hose is connected. As the washer is pumping water out, observe the drain and if water comes backing out of the top, you will need a plumber to clean the drain.
  • Make sure drain hose is secure in drainpipe and not slipping out during a drain cycle. If your washer is a 1995 or newer model, a "plastic tie" strap is included with the installation package and should be used to secure drain hose to the cold water inlet hose. If this is not done, the pressure of the water may cause the drain hose to pop out of the hose drain.
  • On 1995 and newer models, make sure drain hose is secured and fully inserted into the washer drain hose port prior to assembly of plastic drain hose clamp. A plastic retainer clamp is used to attach the drain hose to the back of the washer. When the hose is inserted correctly, the retainer clamp will not be flush with the cabinet. But, once the two clamp screws are installed and tightened, the clamp will be pulled to the cabinet. Refer to your Washer Installation Instructions for proper hookup instructions.

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The water is not draining out of my washer

To minimize the possibility of electric shock, unplug this appliance from the power supply before attempting any maintenance or cleaning.

  • Make sure the washer lid is down. On 1994 and older models the washer spins and drains at the same time. So the lid must be down.
  • Wait a few minutes. On 1995 and newer models, pauses of up to 3 minutes may be noticed between cycles as the timer advances in steps. Do not manually advance the timer if it is pausing after agitation as you may miss the pump-out cycle.
  • On 1994 and older models, advance timer slightly to make sure timer was not in a pause mode.
  • On 1995 and newer washers, if no water is visible in the basket, but you hear a "sloshing water sound" as you move the tub, this is normal. The sloshing you hear is coming from the balance ring. The balance ring is attached to the inner clothes basket and allows the basket to spin smoothly during an out-of-balance situation.
  • Make sure drain hose is not "kinked" or trying to drain more than 8 ft. higher than the floor. The maximum height a GE full size washer will pump is 8 feet, as measured from the floor of the laundry area; 5 feet high for a compact or portable washer.

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My washer is noisy

To minimize the possibility of electric shock, unplug this appliance from the power supply before attempting any maintenance or cleaning.

What kind of noise is it?

  • Grinding, shaking or vibrating: 1995 and newer washers have a shipping rod located on the bottom right side of washer, that must be removed just prior to setting the washer in place. If rod is not removed, the washer will shake, grind, or vibrate. (Do not remove the rod until just before moving into place, because transporting the washer on a cart or dolly without the rod can cause the tub to shift out of alignment or become caught on bottom brackets.) To remove shipping rod: Locate the shipping rod on the bottom right side of the washer, grasp end of rod and pull straight out to release the suspension system. If the shipping rod has not been removed and the machine has been operating, no functional damage will have occurred unless the washer has been operating with the shipping rod in place over a very long period of time.
  • A "sawing" noise: On 1995 and newer washers, a "sawing noise" in agitation is normal. This occurs until the brake pad "wears in" with the braking surface. The noise should stop after a short period of use.
  • A gurgling, or "sucking" noise: This noise before (and possibly during) the spin cycle is a normal sound as the drain pump finishes draining the water from the machine. The noise will stop as the water is extracted from the clothes during the spin cycle.
  • A "sloshing" noise: This noise may be heard throughout the cycle; this too is normal.

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I have a strange odor inside my washer

To minimize the possibility of electric shock, unplug this appliance from the power supply before attempting any maintenance or cleaning.

  • New washers often give off an odor described as a burning match or electrical smell. This is normal and is caused by the "wearing in" of clutch shoes and the heating of new paint on the motor windings.
  • Older washer odors are usually caused by leaving the washer lid closed when not in use. This does not allow air to circulate and dry out the moisture remaining in tub area. The air and moisture mixture becomes stagnant and creates an odor. When washer is not in use, leaving the lid up/open for air circulation will help prevent odor.
To get rid of odors inside of washer follow the steps listed below:

    1. Fill the washer with hot water; set at regular speed & longest time.
    2. Add 3/4 cup of Calgon Clothes Detergent. (Baking soda can be substituted)
    3. Allow washer to complete entire wash and rinse cycle.
    4. If odor lingers, repeat entire process.

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I am getting oil on my clothes/floor

To minimize the possibility of electric shock, unplug this appliance from the power supply before attempting any maintenance or cleaning.

Greasy or oily stains on clothes:

  • The 1995 and newer washer transmission design makes it highly improbable for oil from the transmission to get into washer and splatter on clothing. Most of the time it is caused by splatters from cooking oil. Stains from foods or cooking oils, sometimes called "invisible stains", may not be noticed as you put clothes in the washer. If not completely removed in the wash cycle, the oily spots may pick up dirt from wash water making the spots visible. The washer does not cause these spots.


  • To prevent:
    Wash garments as soon as practical after wearing, using more detergent than normal and the hottest wash water fabric can stand.

    To correct:
    Rub in undiluted detergent, let stand 30 minutes and rewash, using hottest water fabric can stand.
  • If your water is extremely hot, 150 degrees or higher, the water inlet hose(s) could start to break down, causing black greasy stains on clothes. Refer to the Use and Care Guide for your water heater, set the temperature accordingly, and replace the inlet hose(s).
Oil on the floor:
Oil leaks on the floor come from the washer transmission. There is no repair on the existing transmission; it must be replaced. This will require a qualified service technician.

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My washer is walking/vibrating

To minimize the possibility of electric shock, unplug this appliance from the power supply before attempting any maintenance or cleaning.

  • Check to see that the washer is level. The washer needs to be level and sitting on a good solid floor, such as a concrete or reinforced wood floor. Refer to installation instructions for proper leveling.
  • Make sure the load is balanced in the washer. Unbalanced loads can cause the washer to vibrate more. Stop the machine and redistribute the load. The more the legs are extended, the shakier the washer will be during operation.
  • On 1994 and later model washers, try readjusting front legs or re-leveling the machine. Make sure rubber pads are on leveling legs (the two front legs). Make sure front leg lock nuts are tight. Refer to install instructions for leveling instructions.
  • On 1995 and newer washers, you must remove the shipping rod on the bottom right side of the washer just before sliding the washer into place.
    Do not remove the rod prior to sliding into place because transporting the washer on a cart or dolly without the rod can cause washer to be noisy.
    To remove the shipping rod: Locate the shipping rod on the bottom right side of the washer, grasp end of rod and pull straight out to release the suspension system. If the shipping rod has not been removed and the machine has been operating, no functional damage will have occurred unless the washer has been operating with the shipping rod in place over a very long period of time.

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How do I remove the agitator

To minimize the possibility of electric shock, unplug this appliance from the power supply before attempting any maintenance or cleaning.

  • For washers produced after 1994: Grasp around the agitator shirt (do not pull from the top) and pull the agitator up from the bottom. There are no screws holding it.
  • To put the agitator back in place, line up the grooves on the agitator with the shaft and push down firmly. When the agitator is properly in place, there is not a finger's space between the agitator and the bottom of the tub.
  • If your washer was produced before 1995: for instructions on removing the agitator, arrange service.

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Where is the model and serial number located on my washer

  • For 1995 and newer full-size models: the rating tag with the model and serial numbers is located on the top right rear of the backsplash.
  • For 1995 and newer compact washers: the rating tag is on the underside of the lid.
  • For 1994 and older models: The rating tag is located on the left hand side panel of the washer (as you face the front of the washer), near the front, and very close to the floor.

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